ONA was also among the 33 restaurants across the country to receive the green star, a new category created by the Michelin Guide last year that rewards restaurants that are “committed to upholding a virtuous and sustainable approach to gastronomy”. Poullenec said inspectors look for restaurants that work with local producers, grow their own fruits and vegetables or limit the amount of waste produced in the kitchen.
To the dismay of French chefs, restaurants remained empty for most of 2020 because of the pandemic.
They were forced to close for the first time in the spring, when authorities imposed a rigid blockade across the country. After a brief summer reopening, restaurants, cafés and bars were closed again in November – and will remain so until February, at the very least.
But Michelin, unlike other culinary guides, has continued to distribute its coveted one, two and three stars, which can lift a restaurant out of obscurity, but also put immense psychological or financial pressure on chefs to maintain its rating.
No three-star restaurant was downgraded in the 2021 edition of the guide, which was presented on Monday at a ceremony at Jules Vernes, a restaurant on the Eiffel Tower, with only a few chefs present. The event was broadcast live on social media. Only one restaurant, led by chef Alexandre Mazzia in Marseille, was promoted to three stars this year.
Vallée, who was born in the eastern city of Nancy, is a trained archaeologist and fell in love with cooking after she got a summer job in Switzerland. She decided to hone her skills over the course of several years, including one in Thailand, where she discovered the potential of tasty cuisine focused on plants, spices, vegetables and herbs.
But in 2016, when she presented her project for a vegan restaurant on her return to France, traditional banks saw little potential.