Best islands in the Philippines? What to see and do in Batanes

An island cluster in the northernmost region of the Philippines is so remote that it is actually closer to Taiwan than most parts of the Philippines.

The islands are 160 kilometers north of Luzon, the country’s largest and most populous island and home to the capital Manila. However, they couldn’t be further from the stereotypical tropical setting of undulating palm trees and white sand beaches associated with the Philippine archipelago.

Imagine windswept emerald hills dotted with cattle, picturesque stone towns with tree-lined paths, steep cliffs that plummet into a deep sea of ​​crashing waves with white tips and lighthouses that remain firm and strong, just like the locals themselves.

This is Batanes – a captivating and magical place that looks more like the scene of the historical drama “Outlander” than “The Beach”.

Comprising three main islands – Batan, Sabtang and Itbayat – that lie between the North Pacific Ocean and the South China Sea, Batanes is frequently hit by relentless typhoons that form in both bodies of water.

It is also in the Circum-Pacific Belt, better known as the Ring of Fire, and subject to frequent earthquakes, one of which damaged the island of Itbayat in July 2019.

Here, the earth is forged by the elements and, in many ways, people too.

There is an air of mystery that surrounds the indigenous population of Batanes, the Ivatans. Due to its isolation, challenging climate and difficult landscape, residents have built a society that values ​​trust and real connection.

Unlike the Philippines’ turbulent and charmingly chaotic countryside, which may seem more like a karaoke pub than an idyllic paradise, Batanes and its people are quiet, thoughtful, orderly and peaceful. Warm and sincere, Ivatans seek honest interaction with visitors who want to learn more about their culture.

Ivatans live in symbiosis with nature and care for their natural heritage with an almost spiritual fervor. They recognize the land as the source of their well-being and well-being and are adamant about sustainability.

The best example would be the absence of markets in the province; agricultural practices are designed to produce just enough food for the population, with very little surplus.

Here, Christian faith and spirituality permeate everyday life. The word “Dius” or God is used in many expressions: “Dius mamajes!” – or God will reward you it’s your way of saying thanks; “Dius machivan!” – may God go with you it’s your goodbye; or simply “Dius?” to ask if anyone is at home. Once there, visitors will usually hear “Dius mavidin!” or That God be with you, which is how they welcome guests.

Unlike many parts of the Philippines, Batanes is sparsely populated.

The 2015 census counted only 17,246 people, which is equivalent to about 205 people per square mile.

Strict measures are in place to prevent excessive tourism, such as limiting the number of flights to the islands. The area is also subject to the Batanes Responsible Tourism Act, according to which the Philippine government declared the province an “area of ​​ecotourism and responsible community cultural heritage” in 2016.

As a result, travelers can expect to find family homes and small inns instead of branded hotels.

An establishment really stands out.

The former residence of the late artist Pacita Abad, Fundacion Pacita is a charming guesthouse perched atop a lush grassy hillside overlooking the sea.

Built in the traditional stone style, along with whitewashed adobe walls, it is uniquely decorated with colorful tiles, repurposed furniture and vibrant Abad artwork.

His niece, Patsy, who can often be found walking around with a cheerful smile and a glass of wine, now manages the inn. She recently opened the fabulous Café du Tukon, which serves delicious contemporary interpretations of local delicacies, like a carbonara pasta topped with salted dolphin fish, called arayu, instead of bacon or guanciale.

Batan is the main island of Batanes. Due to rough waters and unpredictable weather, crossing between the islands of Batanes can be difficult. Fortunately, Batan has a lot to offer and is easily accessible by commercial flights.

It is essential to work with an accredited tourism agency, such as IBS Tours and Travels, before organizing a trip. The agency can coordinate a car and a guide to navigate the impressive coastal highway that surrounds the island.

Agencies can also organize stops at notable locations, such as the iconic Basque Lighthouse and Tayid Lighthouse, the sloping hills from Rakuh to Payaman and the colorful waters of the Blue Lagoon of Homoron.

It is also worth stopping in small, peaceful towns like Mahatao and Ivana, known for their Spanish churches and bridges, and also in Diura, home to the Mataw caste of mystical fishermen.

Weather permitting, the island of Sabtang is 40 minutes away by ferry. The breathtaking views of the cliffs of Chamantad Tiñan are worthwhile, as well as the stone village of Chavayan where they are made vakul, which are traditional headdresses made of stripped palm leaves that protect field workers from the elements.

The only real way to get there is to fly. Flights can range from 80 to 100 minutes and can be booked on Skyjet, Cebu Pacific and Philippine Airlines before the pandemic.

A trip to Batanes must be planned in advance and booked through accredited tour operators. The local government is very focused on sustainable tourism and the preservation of the province’s natural and cultural heritage. There are a number of rules and guidelines – like bikinis on the beach – that tourists must understand and follow while traveling.

Although the Philippines is currently closed to international tourism, officials last month indicated an interest in establishing “international travel bubbles”, or travel corridors with strict health protocols, with neighboring countries.

Batanes, which registered its third Covid-19 case in December 2020, is currently closed even to domestic tourists. Local authorities are exploring ways to safely reopen with 14-day quarantines and put other health requirements into practice.

Batanes’ “good season” runs from November to May. June to October is the typhoon season and should be avoided. Travelers are advised to bring a light raincoat for spontaneous rains and a light sweater for the cold nights that can be found at the top of the icy mountain peaks.